Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and travelers equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, Unesco designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a select group of world cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it joins a international community of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "demonstrates its deep-rooted food heritage and vibrant food ecosystem," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this venerable city arrives as no surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the global gaze for what has consistently defined its essence: an profound devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a continued discussion from waking up until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and raised to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and carts – hidden gems that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and complicated. The artisan beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though note that their children are unwilling to learn the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will motivate more people globally to discover these tales and experience the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
